El Angel from Mexico City

El Ángel is not a-must-see monument of Mexico City sightseeing tour.  Golden angel statue against a blue sky looks fantastic.  You may find it as an illustration in many guidebooks.   Unfortunately it often serves only as a nice photo.  History and information how and where to find it are scarce.

36-meter column topped with a statue of an angel, which measures 6 meters and weighs 70 tons. The official name of the monument is Monumento de la Independencia or Ángel de la Independencia. It was erected in 1910 during presidency of Porfirio Diaz.  The column commemorates of 100-year anniversary of the struggle for independence.

El Ángel is not just a monument it is also an observation deck. The column is a structure made of steel and covered with stone.  You want to admire a panoramic view you need to climb 200 steps which are inside the column.  It is a challenge for those who do practice sport on a daily basis.  Also people who suffer from claustrophobia should consider thoroughly the visit.

The best description I have found was on Wikipedia.  I rarely recommend it as a source of information but it is worth reading.

Three Cultures Square - Mexico City

Do we understand such a place?

Places marked by important and dramatic events often make a part of a regular touristic tour.  The question is if a short visit allows us to understand what importance has such a place to local community.

Plaza de las Tres Culturas is a tourist must-see in Mexico.  We stayed there for about 15 minutes. The guide explained how contemporary Mexican culture was born from the pre-Columbian and colonial cultures.
The symbol of the first culture was supposed to be the remains of the last Aztec fortress Tlatelolco.  The ruins looked more like something built not long time ago.  The colonial culture was embodied in a church of St. Jacobs (Iglesia de Santiago) built in 15th or early 16th century.  The church was controlled by the Franciscan order which established there Colegio de la Santa Cruz. Modern Mexico is represented by a massive housing complex built in 1964.  And definitely it is not the best examples of local or any other architecture.  The whole setting looked to me a bit like a scenography.

In modern times the place witnessed the massacre of students on October the 2nd in 1968. I believe that the dramatic event is much more important for Mexicans visiting Square.  And it is something what a passing-by tourist cannot perceive.
A little bit more about the place you can find at go mexico site.

Mexico City walk

High expectations and ...

I visualize Mexico with pyramids, exotic pre-Columbian culture and beaches.  Mexico City, also called the District Federal, is a different world. The metropolitan area of Mexico City accounts for approximately 22 million.  It is a huge city for the European standards.

The city was founded on an island on Lake Texcoco by the Aztecs. As the city grew the lake and swamps were dried and filled up to create space for new constructions.  In result today’s city, and in particular its historic part, is gradually sinking.  It is also a seismic zone which suffers for earthquakes every some time. So don’t be surprised with all those leaning buildings, and the best ones to see and feel it, are the Church of St. Francis, the Cathedral and the Shrine of Guadalupe.

A good starting point of a city walk is the Torre Latinoamericana.  It was first Mexican skyscraper. You can see the whole city, including favelas outside the boarder of the city form the platform on 42-nd floor. The admission ticket includes entrance to an exhibition on the 41st floor.  It is worth to have a look at it and get a gist of the city’s history, including the tragic earthquake in 1985.

Across from the Torre Latinoamericana there is the Palacio de Bellas Artes.  The building may remind you of the architecture of Paris. It was an idea of Porfirio Díaz, who wanted to rebuild the capital in Paris style. Opposite Torre there is a building covered with blue tiles, it is the Casa de los Azulejos. Walking down the Francisco Madero Street you can visit the church of Saint Francisco (Iglesia de San Francisco). Here you can see what effects have both sinking and earthquakes on city’s architecture. Right next door you will find the Palacio de Iturbide. Beautifully decorated patio and interiors, of the 18th century palace, serve as an exhibitions hall.
Madero Street ends at the Constitution Square (Plaza de la Constitución), known as Zócalo. Here we find the Cathedral and the Palacio Nacional.  The square itself does not stand out from many others. But, if you are Bond movie lover you may recognize it in "Spectre".   There is an article in Condé Nast Traveler for those who are interested in film production sights.

Metropolitan Cathedral - Mexico City

The most important monument of the historic center is the Metropolitan Cathedral - Catedral Metropolitana. It is the oldest cathedral in Latin America.  Its history goes back to Hermán Cortés who chose the place for the future cathedral in 1524. Today it is impossible to determine if it is true or he just built a regular church at that site. But it is fact that they used stones from demolished Aztec temples, including of the Templo Mayor. The remnants of the Templo Mayor can be seen next to the cathedral.
Construction of the church lasted almost three hundred years.  In the meantime plans, architects and styles kept changing. Actually, it is difficult to say when the construction of the present building started and when it was completed.   There are different sources providing various dates.  Generally speaking work lasted from 16th to 18th century. History lovers, who speak Spanish, can find some relevant texts at the cathedral’s website.

Metropolitan Cathedral is also the biggest cathedral in Latin America. It is 100 meters long, 46 meters wide with 5 naves impressive. While walking inside we realize and sense that the structure, like the entire city, is sinking.  It is incredible that the structure has not fallen apart. But actually we can visit the cathedral today due to the efforts of city authorities.  They have invested considerable amount of money to preserve the monument. In the year 2000 the cathedral was included in the UNESCO list of the most endangered monuments.
The interior decoration of the cathedral includes elements of various architectural styles, including typical for Mexico churriguera style. Two famous altars, Altar de los Reyes and the Altar del Perdón, are located in the central nave.  There are 14 more chapels with many works of art.
There is a chapel of the Blessed Sacrament next to the Cathedral. The chapel, built in the seventeenth century, is a regular place of worship. But it is worth paying attention to façade ornaments made of white and red stone.